Monday, April 20, 2009

Spain limestone trip

I have just returned from a trip to Terradetts in the north of Spain with ex BRYCS/YCS climbers Greg Boswell, Ally Swinton and Jonny Stocking. Although the weather was not the best, 2 weeks of solid rain and snow! some pretty radical ticks were achieved by the squad!

Terradets is a huge single pitch limestone fault with almost 50 top class 30m+ sport routes ranging from French 7a - French 8c+. The routes either follow never ending Tuffa systems up the steadily overhanging left hand end of the crag, or they force their way powerfully through the massive cave and overhanging sector at the right hand end of the crag. The variety of terain and style of route at this crag makes it the perfect destination to both push your on-sight climbing and get stuck into a project or two on the same trip.

We were given the guided tour to the crag from ex EICA: Ratho BRYCS coach & world class sport climber Tom Bolger. It was pretty phenominal watching him dispatch 8a onsight after 8a onsight and come very close to ticking another French 8c+ through the steepest cave I have ever seen. The only thing preventing the chain being ticked being an absolutely soaking head wall for the whole 2 weeks we were out there.

The Scottish kids were on fire as usual and despite constantly being frustrated by wet tuffas and swamp like approaches to the crag, every one mannaged to push their sport climbing grade. Fife climber Greg Boswell mannaged to build on a quick early season tick of Hammish Teddies and red pointed his first ever French 7c 'Avant Max'. He also came agonisingly close to ticking his first French 7C+, falling off the last move on his last repoint attempt on the last day of the trip.

Fellow fife climber Ali Swinton also had a productive trip, ticking his first 7c+ redpoint on 'Energy Posativa' and coming very close to ticking 8a on the trip also.

Finally Johny Stocking was on fire as always, nipping out after blowing away the competition at the Leading Ladder Finals. Johny spent the trip making light work of everything he tried being stopped only by wet rock from ticking his first 8b. He also made a very impressive flash of 'Primera Linea' French 8a. I wonder if 16 years is the youngest Scottish onsight or flash of French 8a!

All in all it was a good trip and every one made the best out of bad conditions. If you want to check out photos or read more about the trip chech ot Greg's blog on;

http://www.gregboswell.blogspot.com/

EICA: Ratho / Mountaineering Council of Scotland - Introduction to Onsighting Event 26/04/09

Hi Everyone,
Just reminding everyone that there is a youth development event at EICA: Ratho on 26th Apri. This event is open to all climbers from YCS level - through to British Team level climbers. The day will consist of lots of onsight/comp practice on a range of new comp style routes set specifically for the day. The day will be split in to 2 halves with British Team Climbers (& invited guests) attending a workshop from 10 am - 2 pm, where they will have a range of national competition style routes to test their skills against on our new Hanger Comp Wall. YCS level kids are welcome to attend this session as spectators and draw inspiration from watching our country's best competition climbers in action.

The 2pm afternoon session will be open to any climber, who has entered this years YCS series. It will consist of a 4 hour workshop with coaching tips on onsight and competition tactics. Plus there will be a range of YCS Comp style routes to test your skills against throughout the afternoon. There will be British/Scottish Team Coaches and British/Scottish Team members on hand to offer top tips and encouragement throughout the afternoon. Please book on to this through phoning 0131 333 6333 it is completely FREEEEEEEEEEEE of charge, so don't miss it. I know it is the day after the YCS, but it will be well worth making the effort to attend!

If you have any other questions, contact me at neilmcgeachy_1@hotmail.com